Hi guys,
I am just back from a grueling schedule of exams, had to write 4 papers in 4 days, although preparation was not that great :P you still have to go through the mental grind to finish it off. Moreover it had the added incentive of being the penultimate term after this I am just left with one subject and a thesis to finish in about 4 months time.
Couple of months before these exams, I took a break and drove to Nagarhole with cousins and parents. Many people had been requesting me to post a travelogue for sometime now and me being me ;-) I'm doing this now.
Now to serious matters, I will break this up into three sections,
1. How to get there?
2. Where to stay?
3. Things to do in and around Nagarhole.
How to get there ?
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Start off early in the morning say max by 7 am so as to avoid Bangalore traffic. For me it was not as a big issue as accessibility to NICE corridor is not an issue and I don't have to negotiate the city traffic that much. Ok now hit the Bangalore - Mysore highway and start driving towards Mysore. If you have started early you are most likely to feel hungry :-) and there are some good places to stop by and eat. For those who want to taste road side "tatte idli" (plate idli) you have umpteen shops around Bidadi and they are good. However with parents around it is was not a good idea for me to stop there for breakfast. Further ahead just after Ramanagara is Kamat Lokaruchi. It is a nice place to have breakfast, but if you are traveling on a weekend, which most likely you will my advice is please DONOT stop here as it will waste at least 1.5 hrs of your time. It is mad rush on a weekend for breakfast in this place. I prefer and advice you to have breakfast at Shivalli Tiffin Room. This is relatively less crowded and serves good food. The kadabu (idli cooked in the shape of a cup in covered by a leaf and not the sweet that we usually associate with) is a good option here and is very soft and is always served hot. We had kadbu and coffee buffs had some very nice coffee here and we moved on. Then we stopped at Maddur Coffee Day and picked up some peanuts and coffee from there and started heading towards mysore.
To go to Nagarhole from Mysore road there are two possible routes one is the deviation just after Srirangapatna towards KRS - if you take this route it saves quite a bit of distance and also the road is not bad. When you take this route you have to be careful about the deviations on this road when you start heading towards KRS. The first one is the fork towards KRS, DONOT go towards KRS unless you plan to visit it en route. Now that you are on the road not going towards KRS after some distance say about 4 -5 kilometers there is another deviation one goes to Mysore Ring Road and the other towards Hunsur / Madikeri road. Take the road towards Hunsur/Madikeri Road. This is a good road with relatively less traffic albeit a bit narrow, but with with less traffic you feel the road is all yours :-) .
The other road is after Srirangapatna head off towards Mysore and just before you enter the city there is a signal which is the Mysore Ring road. You need to take a right turn at this signal to get to Hunsur/Madikeri road. There are elaborate direction on this route and it is almost next to impossible to miss this turn. For first timers I strongly recommend taking the second route as it is pretty straight forward. Once on Mysore Ring road just keep going until you see a right turn onto the Hunsur/Madikeri Road. The first option that I gave will bypass all this ring road and join the Hunsur/Madikeri road.
On this road just head towards Hunsur, this is a beautiful road and pump the gas up on your car upto the level you feel comfortable. I drove my car at average speed of 80 kmph on this road. Now when you near Hunsur about 4-5 kms before Hunsur you will see a fork. There is a signboard indicating left for Nagarhole and straight for Kushalnagar onto Madikeri. Take the left fork and head into Hunsur town. It is a small town like any other midsized town in the country, but don't speed here as people arbitrarily keep crossing, drive ccarefully. If you want to fill up petrol or any refreshments for yourself do it here there is nothing beyond this point. Ok now after driving for about kilometer into the town you will see a petrol pump on your left hand side. This is where you need to take a left turn towards Nagarhole, there are KSTDC boards ( yellow colored ones) indicating the turn. Now you are on HD Kote road. This road is average and don't try to reach speeds in excess of 40 kmph unless you are driving an off roader or something like that. On this road after about 5 kilometeres there is a fork towards Nagarhole National Park to your right, take that road and start heading towards Nagarhole. It is about 45 kilometers from this fork. After driving for about 17-20 kilometers you will encounter the periphery of the National Park where there is a gate, you need to register your vehicle here and pay some fees fixed by the department.
Now there are two places inside the park the first one about 8 kilometers from the gate is a place called Murkal, which is an elephant training camp. There are nice forest department guest house if you know someone in the department you can get accommodation here. The second one is Nagarhole about 20 kms further from Murkal where there are a couple of guest houses and a dormitory kind of setup (we were booked into this as the cottages were full). You can book these through the forest department office in Malleswaram, but if you know someone it is always better :-). So having started from bangalore at close to 8 am we reached there by about 2 pm in the afternoon. The road upto about 5 kms from Nagarhole is excellent and driving is not a problem at all.
Summary, route is Bangalore -> Mysore Ring road -> Hunsur -> Nagarhole.
Where to stay?
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As I said earlier there are the two options one in Murkal and the other in nagarhole, I will also talk about the third option in a while. So if you stay at Murkal you have to drive down to Nagarhole yourself the safari which runs from Nagarhole.
If you stay in Nagarhole try the cottages we tried to get them but everything was full and we got the dormitory which is not great, it is not well maintained and toilets not clean so we had a bit of tough time I would say. Apart from this it is a good place to stay in the middle of the forest. There are two options for food either you take your won stuff ;-) or eat something which is cooked there by the folks there which is not bad for food in the middle of the forest. They serve you very well here and it would be a good idea to tip them well were treated very well giving us hot lunch, breakfast, tea 3 times which was good and we tipped them well because the service was nice.
The third and possibly the best of the lot is to stay in a place called Kutta. This is a small -sleepy towon bordering Kerala about 18 kms from Nagarhole and outside the national park. The drive to this town has some breathtaking views of Waynad hills (Nagarhole and Waynad are the same range). There are umpteem home stays here and you can look up the internet for. We just stopped by to take a look at one of the homestays and it is really a very good option. The cost would be Rs.1000/- per person per day which includes wonderful accommodation, tea 2 times, breakfast, lunch and dinner. I looked at one called Narikadi homestay and spoke to the owners at length for about an hour and they were very nice people and I will probably choose this option when I go there.
Things to do
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Day 1 ( half a day - after arrival)
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If you are staying in Nagarhole, you can checkin to your accommodation there freshen up and then take a safari later in the evening. Otherwise you would do well to take the Safari at the earliest and head towards Kutta for your homestay as it is advisable not to drive through the park after dark as there are likely animals wandering on the road and most likely they are elephants and you have to just stand until they clear out the road which may sometimes take hours. So get to preferably get to Kutta before sunset, but at least outside the park before sunset.
Since we stayed in the park we took a late safari and managed to couple of elephants and some deers that's it.
Day 2 ( full day )
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You can either take a Safari in the park. Preferably take the first one as there is a possibility of some sighting
the closest we came to spotting the big and the elusive cat was some pugmarks which according to our safari bus driver was relatively fresh. This safari took about an hour and fifteen minutes.
Then we freshened up had some quick breakfast and headed towards Irupu falls that is about 12 kms ahead of Kutta on the Kutta-Gonikoppa road. You need to take a slight devaition of about 2 kms to get to the foothills of Brahmagiri hills where the Brahmagiri sanctuary is located. These 2 kms of road is virtually non-existent and preferably you should have a vehicle with good power the ascent back is very steep. This stretch of road is extremely narrow and you need all your driving skills negotiating this stretch and if a vehicle comes in the opposite direction take it easy don't get tensed and carefully tread your path. But the pain you take to get there is worth it. Once you reach brahmagiri there is a small temple there which is Kerala style architecture I was told. There is a pathway adjacent to the temple to reach the falls it is about a half a kilometer trek to reach the falls, there are steps to reach there and there is a observation deck there to see the falls for those who can't climb beyond this deck as the climb gets a bit steep beyond that.
But Irupu falls is one of its kind and you would love spending time there, the waterfall is relatively small and safe to sit under the water that falls from about 30-40 feet with tremendous force it is the most natural body massage you will get. The water is clean and cold, if you go in winter like I did your body will writhe with the pain because of the cold water, but that is fun :-) . You can easily spend couple of hours here. We saw this came back to Nagarhole by about 1.30 PM and started back to bangalore taking the same route that we took to reach there.
Day 3 ( Optional - I would say go for this if it is possible which was not for us)
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After seeing Irupu falls you have two options either you can head back to Kutta , have lunch and then head to Waynad, I think it is Tholepatty wildlife sanctuary which houses about 900 elephants that is the closest. I am not 100% sure about the name of the sanctuary but is one of those in Waynad district of Kerala. This is about 10 kms form Kutta and my cousin who was there earlier vouches for it and also said that the vegetation there is totally different from the Nagarhole range and worth taking a look.
The other option is to drive to Madikeri on Day 2 after seeing Irupu falls through Gonikoppa - > Virajpet - > Madikeri, the road is average and it about 3-4 hrs drive from Irupu to Madikeri. You would have probably the evening of Day 2 and Day 3 to see Madikeri and head back to Banagalore. The road from Madikeri to Bangalore is good in patches and the route is : Madikeri - > Kushalnagar - > Piriyapatna -> Hunsur -> Mysore/Srirangapatna - > Bangalore.
This was my experience of a trip to Nagarhole National park about 2 months back. There may be typos and some other mistakes, please feel free to comment and let me know.